If I’m honest I could work for the Portuguese Tourist Board. The number of people to whom I’ve recommended a visit, offered travel tips, hotel and restaurant recommendations over the years is just crazy. I first visited as a young teen on a family holiday. We went to Albufeira (more of that to follow!) and I loved it. But having been lucky enough to live in Portugal for four years much later in life, I became a great font of Portuguese knowledge.
UK and Portuguese ties go back a long way. The UK’s oldest alliance, the Treaty of Windsor, was signed in 1386 between King Richard II of England and King John I of Portugal. The long standing friendship and cooperation between the two countries could (unknowingly for most) suggest why Portugal is such a popular destination for so many UK holidaymakers. It’s a really welcoming place and great for either a family holiday or a short city break. The Portuguese love the UK with a significant diaspora in both London and Manchester.
Ahead of beginning a four year work contract in the capital Lisbon, I spent six months studying Portuguese in London during the summer of the 2012 Olympics. This was a really happy time in my life; being a full-time student again, enjoying the fabulous summer of sport and great weather, together with the anticipation of heading off to Portugal for four years, who could be happier? I then lived with a lovely Portuguese family in Porto whilst I underwent immersion language training in-country. The language isn’t an easy one to master. As a Spanish speaker, I should possibly have found it easier to learn than I did. Oral and listening communication is really tasking. If I had a penny for every time a UK visitor remarked to me that the language sounded like Russian, I’d be a rich woman!
During my four years in Portugal I spent a lot of time exploring the country. The Algarve is the most popular destination for the UK tourist with between 2-3 million visits annually. I agree, it has lots to offer; great beaches, fabulous weather and vibrant culture; though avoid Albufeira! In four years, I never visited once…. My teenage self loved it, as an adult I stayed clear.
My two favourite places in the whole of the country are Lisbon and Porto. Both major cities, both equally attractive with lots to offer the visitor. They are fierce rivals, particularly on the football pitch, and the natives will insist that their city is better than its rival. I find it very hard to pick between the two, but possibly Lisbon edges it for me. I highly recommend a visit to both.
As the capital city, Lisbon is quite a bit more expensive than its northern neighbour where you’ll find more budget friendly options available. Lisbon has become increasingly more expensive over recent years, but your money still goes a relatively long way – you can have a great time on a budget.
Both cities are awash with history and culture, stunning architecture, fabulous food/wine and great transport links. Both cities are small and really easy to get around. Taxis are cheap, though it’s far more enjoyable wandering around the streets. You’ll need comfortable footwear in both as you’ll certainly get your steps in. Both are hilly – note Lisbon is known as the City of Seven Hills for a reason! The infamous pavements in central Lisbon are stunningly beautiful, but treacherous. Leave any type of heeled footwear at home.
The Portuguese are a proud nation. There is absolutely no love lost with their Iberian neighbours. They speak fabulous English – did I mention they love the UK?, but will encourage you if you attempt their native tongue. They are honest, you won’t ever be ripped off. In short, if you haven’t been, go! And if you’ve been before, I’m sure you loved it and have thought of a return.
Top tip for Lisbon: don’t miss the wonderful seafood. You can eat fabulous fayre incredibly cheaply at many of the local “tascas”, choose the “menu del dia” for a 3 course meal. Lisbon is famed for having the best light in Europe, so finding a great view and having your camera on hand, is an added bonus. You are truly spoiled for choice in this beautiful city. Spend time in Alfama and catch a fado performance. It’s mournful and melancholic, I’m possibly not selling it well, but it’s a huge part of Portuguese culture and worth experiencing.
Top tip for Porto: ensure you cross the Dom Luis bridge over the river Douro for a glass of Portugal’s finest (port or red wine) in neighbouring Vila Nova de Gaia to enjoy the view of the resplendence of Porto from across the water. We rented an apartment on the waterfront in Gaia, so we could enjoy the visita throughout our stay. Don’t miss doing a port wine making tour.
Best time of year to visit Portugal for me is between May and October. I wouldn’t recommend either city over the winter when both are pretty cold and really not at their finest. May is my favourite month in Lisbon when the jacaranda is in full bloom and the city is just stunning. September days in Porto are long and sunny. Seek out a great sunset at one of the various beaches just north of the city.
Let me know in the comments if you’ve been to either/both cities. What did you love?